Profiles Finger Jointed Mouldings

Pine Mouldings are carefully graded and precision milled resulting in a high quality finish. The extensive range is available in a variety of sizes and profiles ranging from 42mm through to 138mm as well as our small mouldings such as Scotia & Quad. Finger jointed mouldings are available in custom lengths of 5.4m, standard and half size packs. For the full range click here There is also a choice of unprimed or primed products which are ideal for gloss or flat paint finishes. Solid Pine mouldings are also available which are perfect for staining. Window reveals & door jamb components complete the product range providing the ability to complete an entire home with exceptional quality finger jointed products.

Pine Mouldings Range

* non standard size

Pine Mouldings Handling and Installation

Handling.

Store Mouldings in a clean, dry place.
Before installing; place the mouldings in the room in which they will be installed for 24 to 48 hours. This allows timber to acclimatise to the room temperature and humidity, helping prevent expansion or contraction of the moulding after it has been installed.

Mitring.

Mitres are used when two pieces of moulding meet at an outside corner, an inside corner (when the moulding is applied flat to the wall), or around doors and windows. First set the mitre box at 45° (figure 1.)

Trim each of the two mitring members at opposite angles. When fitted together they should form a tight right angle (figure 2.). For tight mitring joints, nail and glue at joint. Make sure the nails are countersunk below the surface.

Coping

The coping technique is used when butting ceiling mouldings at an inside corner. One piece is cut flat to the wall at a right angle, while the end of the other moulding must be coped, or shaped to match the profile of the adjoining moulding.

Set moulding on a mitre box as it is to be installed on wall, upright against backplate (figure 3.).

Trim at 45° angle. The resulting cut exposes the profile of the moulding, serving as a template. Following this profiles with the coping saw (figure 4.) at a 90° angle to the face of the moulding results in a duplication of the pattern which fits over the face of the adjoining moulding (figure 5.).

Splicing

Moulding installation covering large spans may require a splice or a joint.
Position the moulding in the mitre box as if the back of the mitre box were the wall.
Without changing the angle of the saw, make a 15-degree cut in the ends of both pieces (figure 6.). Position the joint over a solid base such as a stud, top plate or bottom plate. Glue edges, then nail through both mitred cuts.

Finishing.

Generally, it is easier and faster to do the finishing after the moulding has been measured and cut, but before it is installed.
If the moulding is primed, apply a coat of paint before the moulding is installed.
When paint is dry, nail moulding in place, use nail set to punch in the nails, then putty the holes. Sand when putty has dried, and apply one more coat of paint.
If applying paint with moulding installed, mask with tape around the edges of the moulding and apply finish. Remove the mask before the finished has dried completely.

MSDS

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Carter Holt Harvey is committed to on-going reviews of its MSDS's to ensure they reflect all currently available information. In the event that you require more detail on any MSDS or would like to confirm that you have the most recent MSDS for a particular product, please contact the Marketing Department via phoning 132 321.